Ahhhh! My arms. My back. My neck. And my crack!
They all hurt, but this feels oh-so-right (:
Someone told me today that we’ve had 24 straight days of waves, and those estimations seem just about right. If today’s Maria swell wasn’t the perfect cap to the 24th day of waves, then I do not know what more could be coming our way (I expect there to be a 25th tomorrow with leftovers, and maybe a leftovers’ leftover day, but we’ll see).
The boys ventured north for Maria’s mouthwatering mondos. But even the photos we took don’t do the waves justice.
I saw some of the best surfing, and best barrel negotiation today. On top of that, I saw some of the most effortless barrel-riding ever. This meant perfection. Pumping and surfing inside the barrel is amazing, and truly shows how good that particular surfer is in waves of consequence. However, there is nothing better than a steep wave, and a bottom-turn into a standup keg. It shows that the waves were better than the surfers themselves. Mother Nature calling the shots and surfers obeying.
Today, dudes touched wave walls more delicately than they would their woman—hoping and praying for a light at the end to a dark cave.
And that’s what we were today. Cave dwellers. Pit fiends. Frenzied, raged, pumped, mad, sad, and full of joy at the same time.
It’s a great day for obvious reasons, yet a sad one too. Anyone who surfed today will definitely be subject to PTSD—hoping and wishing the waves to be good again as they were today. This is our struggle, but it’s one we all agreed to. Until next time, check the photo gallery below, and just know it was even better than it looked…